Kjölur Trail (Kjalvegur)

The Kjölur trail, or Kjalvegur, is a classic multi-day highland hike in Iceland: 40 km point-to-point from Hvítárnes, on the shore of the glacier lake Hvítárvatn, north to the geothermal oasis of Hveravellir. Most hikers take 2–3 days, with about 600 m of total ascent and a high point of 760 m. The walking itself is rarely steep, but you are deep in the interior, far from towns, with weather that can change fast.

The route follows an old north–south crossing of the highlands, running along the eastern flank of Langjökull with Kerlingarfjöll and Hofsjökull on the horizon to the east. Expect wide gravel plains, moss and heath, lava, glacial streams and huge skies rather than dramatic canyons. Mountain huts break the trek into manageable days, and the finish at Hveravellir, with its steaming vents and a hot pool, is one of the best rewards of any Icelandic trek.

Highlights

• Hvítárvatn lake, with an outlet glacier of Langjökull calving into it
• Long views of Langjökull, Hofsjökull and the Kerlingarfjöll mountains
• The sheltered valley of Þjófadalir near the end of the route
• Hot springs, fumaroles and a bathing pool at Hveravellir
• Solitude: far fewer hikers than the Laugavegur

Kjölur Trail (Kjalvegur) itinerary

Getting to the trailhead

Both ends lie off the Kjölur road (35, often signed F35), a highland road that opens only in summer and requires a 4x4; the track to Hvítárnes is rougher still. Most hikers use summer highland buses, which have historically run over Kjölur via Gullfoss and stop at Hveravellir, then arrange a drop-off near Hvítárnes. Services and stops change from year to year, so confirm current operators and check road.is before planning.

Where to stay

Ferðafélag Íslands (FÍ) runs mountain huts at Hvítárnes, Þverbrekknamúli and Þjófadalir. They are small and basic, so book in advance and bring your own food and sleeping bag. Hveravellir has a lodge with beds and a campsite. Camping is possible near the huts, but bring a tent that can handle strong wind.

Best time to hike

The trek is realistic in July, August and September, once the Kjölur road opens and snow has melted from the route. July and August give the longest days and most stable conditions. September is quieter and can be beautiful, but nights get cold, daylight shortens fast and early snow is possible, especially later in the month.

Safety

This is remote highland country with no services between huts and patchy mobile coverage. Fog can make the open plains disorienting, so carry a map, compass or GPS track and follow the markers. Wade glacial streams early in the day with poles and footwear on. At Hveravellir, stay on boardwalks: the ground around hot springs can be thin and scalding. Check vedur.is and SafeTravel.is, leave a travel plan, and call 112 in an emergency.