Landmannalaugar: Brennisteinsalda & Bláhnúkur Loop

Of all the landmannalaugar hikes, the loop over Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur is the one that shows off the area best. In about 11 km you climb through the Laugahraun obsidian lava field, past steaming vents to the sulphur-streaked slopes of Brennisteinsalda, and up to the summit of Bláhnúkur for a view over a sea of rhyolite peaks in shades of red, orange, green and cream. It is the classic introduction to the highlands of Iceland, and it ends back at the natural hot spring.

Landmannalaugar sits in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve at roughly 600 m altitude, and is both the start of the Laugavegur trail and a destination in its own right. The loop takes four to five hours with about 600 m of ascent. Trails are marked with coloured stakes, though junctions are numerous, so carry a map or download one. If you have more time, the area offers plenty of other walks, from the short Laugahraun circuit to longer ridge routes, all starting from the same hut.

Most visitors come on a day trip by bus or super jeep, which typically allows enough time for this loop and a soak. Staying overnight at the hut or campsite is even better: you can catch the low evening light on the mountains, add a second hike the next morning, and have the hot spring almost to yourself once the day tours have left. Either way, come prepared for highland weather, which can be cold and windy even on a bright July day.

Highlights

• The Laugahraun lava field, glittering with black obsidian
• Steaming fumaroles and sulphur colours on Brennisteinsalda
• Summit views from Bláhnúkur over the rhyolite mountains
• A soak in the natural warm pool by the hut at the end

The route

Getting to the trailhead

Landmannalaugar is reached only on F-roads, which require a 4x4. The usual route from Reykjavík is via Road 26 and then F208 from the north, which typically has no major river crossings until the final ford beside the hut; there is a car park before the ford and a footbridge for walkers. A parking fee is charged per vehicle, and in recent summers (roughly 20 June to 13 September) anyone arriving between 09:00 and 16:00 has had to book a parking slot in advance on parka.is. F225 and the southern section of F208 have more river crossings. If you do not want to drive, a bus to the Landmannalaugar trailhead is easy in summer: Reykjavík Excursions, Trex and Iceland by Bus typically run daily services from Reykjavík, taking around four hours each way and allowing a few hours on site.

Where to stay

FÍ runs the Landmannalaugar hut, which is popular and must be booked in advance, along with a large campsite on gravel with toilets and showers. The campsite is windy and cold at night even in summer, so bring a sturdy tent and a warm sleeping bag. There is no hotel; the nearest roofed alternatives are a few highland lodges and the guesthouses of the Hella and Hvolsvöllur area, a long drive away. Wild camping is not allowed in the nature reserve.

Best time to hike

The F-roads to Landmannalaugar usually open in mid to late June and close again in September, depending on snow. Late June can still see snow on Bláhnúkur and on the higher paths. July and August are the most reliable months and also the busiest; the hot spring is crowded in the middle of the day when buses arrive. Early mornings and evenings are quieter and have the best light on the coloured slopes.

Safety

Weather changes quickly at this altitude, so bring waterproofs and warm layers even on sunny days, and check vedur.is before setting out. Stay on marked trails in geothermal areas, where crusts can hide boiling water. Bláhnúkur's scree is loose and steep; poles help. Do not attempt river fords in a 2WD car or a small 4x4 that is not built for them, and check road status on umferdin.is. Leave a travel plan at safetravel.is for longer hikes, and call 112 in an emergency.