Fimmvörðuháls Hike

The Fimmvörðuháls hike is the best one-day mountain traverse in Iceland. Starting at the foot of Skógafoss on the south coast, the trail climbs beside the Skógá river past more than twenty waterfalls, crosses the high pass between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull ice caps, passes the craters formed in the 2010 eruption, and drops down into the green valleys of Þórsmörk. It is 23 km with about 1,050 m of ascent, and the variety from start to finish is extraordinary.

Most hikers walk it in a long day of eight to ten hours, finishing at Básar and catching a highland bus out. It can also be split into two days with a night at Fimmvörðuskáli or Baldvinsskáli near the top of the pass, or used as the final leg of the Laugavegur in reverse. The fimmvorduhals trail map is straightforward: river path, high plateau, lava field and craters, then a steep descent via the Heljarkambur ridge and the Kattahryggir to Goðaland.

The catch is altitude and weather. The top of the pass sits around 1,000–1,100 m, it is often in cloud, and snow can lie there all summer. Conditions at Skógar tell you very little about conditions at the top, so plan for winter-like weather on the plateau even in July. With a good forecast, sensible gear and an early start, though, it is a day most fit hikers remember as the highlight of their trip.

Highlights

• A procession of waterfalls along the Skógá gorge above Skógafoss
• Crossing the pass between two glaciers at around 1,000 m
• Magni and Móði, the craters and lava field of the 2010 eruption
• The airy Heljarkambur ridge and Kattahryggir (Cat's Backs) descent
• Panoramic views over Þórsmörk, Goðaland and the Markarfljót plains

The route

Getting to the trailhead

Skógar is on the Ring Road about two and a half hours' drive from Reykjavík, with paid parking at Skógafoss (around 1,000 ISK per car, paid via the Parka app) and Strætó and tour buses passing through. Because the hike is one-way, the usual plan is to leave a car or take a bus to Skógar and return from Básar by highland bus. In summer Reykjavík Excursions, Trex and others typically run services to Þórsmörk and Básar, and some include a Skógar stop so you can return to your car. Do not drive a rental car into Þórsmörk: the road crosses the Krossá and other glacial rivers.

Where to stay

At Skógar there is a campsite right below Skógafoss plus hotels and guesthouses in the village. On the pass, Útivist runs Fimmvörðuskáli and FÍ runs Baldvinsskáli; both are small and need booking ahead. At the Þórsmörk end you can stay at Útivist's huts and campsite at Básar, at FÍ's Langidalur hut (closed for rebuilding from autumn 2026 until June 2027), or at Volcano Huts in Húsadalur, which also has private rooms. Camping is only allowed at designated sites.

Best time to hike

The trail is usually snow-free enough for normal hiking gear from late June or early July to early September, matching the season of the Þórsmörk buses. Expect snow patches at the top for much of the summer. July and August are busiest, especially on weekends, and the first few waterfalls can be crowded with day visitors. Start early: long summer daylight gives you plenty of time, and an early start means a better chance of clear views from the pass.

Safety

Fimmvörðuháls has a history of deadly weather; hikers have died of exposure on the pass, and rescue teams are called out most summers. Check vedur.is the day before and the morning of your hike, and leave a travel plan at safetravel.is. Turn back if the plateau is in thick fog with strong wind or rain. Carry full waterproofs, warm layers, gloves, food and water, and a map or GPS track. The ridges near Þórsmörk are exposed and dangerous in strong wind. Call 112 in an emergency.